Death & Co opened on East 6th Street in New York’s East Village on New Year’s Eve 2006. Within a year, its bartenders had created several drinks that are now taught in bartending courses around the world. The most famous is the Oaxaca Old Fashioned. It turned a lot of people on to mezcal at a time when most Americans had never heard of it.
The Original
Phil Ward, one of Death & Co’s opening bartenders, created the drink in 2007. The idea was simple: make an Old Fashioned with agave instead of whiskey. Reposado tequila made the base, mezcal added smoke, agave nectar replaced the sugar, and Angostura bitters and a flamed orange twist finished it.
The spec published in the bar’s book, Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails (2014), is:
- 1½ oz El Tesoro reposado tequila
- ½ oz Del Maguey San Luis del Rio mezcal
- 1 tsp agave nectar
- 2 dashes Angostura bitters
- Flamed orange twist
Death & Co has since expanded to other cities, and its menu changes often, but this is still its signature drink.
Why the Split Base Works
Mezcal is often smoky because its agave hearts are roasted in earthen pits. In 2007 most American drinkers thought of mezcal as a novelty with a worm. Ward used it carefully, as a supporting ingredient. Three parts reposado to one part mezcal gives a rounded drink with a hint of smoke rather than a smoky drink.
Reposado tequila is aged in oak for at least two months, which gives it vanilla, caramel and a bit of spice, making it a natural match for the bitters and orange.
Common Mistakes
- Too much mezcal. An all-mezcal or half-and-half version can be good, but it’s not the Oaxaca Old Fashioned.
- Shaking. Shaking makes the drink cloudy and foamy. Stir it.
- Too much agave. Agave nectar is about 1.5 times sweeter than sugar. One barspoon is enough.
- Mixto tequila. Use a 100% agave reposado. Cheap ‘mixto’ tequilas taste harsh and sweet.
The Key Technique: The Flamed Twist
The flamed orange peel is part of the drink, not just a show. When you squeeze the peel through a flame, its oils caramelize slightly and land on the drink’s surface. You smell toasted orange before you taste anything, and that aroma ties together the smoke and the agave.
Use a wide strip of peel with little white pith. Hold a lit match a few inches above the glass, squeeze the peel sharply toward the flame, and you’ll see a quick burst of sparks. Rub the peel on the rim and drop it in. If you’d rather not use a flame, a normal orange twist still works.
Batching for a Party
Spirit-forward drinks like this are perfect for batching. Mix a bottle’s worth with water for dilution and keep it in the freezer. It pours ready to drink over large cubes. The only part you have to do glass by glass is the twist.
The Mocktail: Smoke Signal
A zero-proof agave spirit gives you the tequila flavor, and a half-ounce of lapsang souchong (a smoky Chinese tea) stands in for the mezcal. Angostura bitters are about 45% alcohol, so this version skips them and uses a clove plus a flamed orange peel for the aromatic finish. Zero-proof spirits dilute quickly, so stir it for only 15 seconds.
Choosing the Agave Spirits
For the reposado, look for ‘100% agave’ on the label and a brand without additives. El Tesoro, the original, is still excellent. Siete Leguas, Cimarrón, Fortaleza and Tequila Ocho are also good options.
For the mezcal, an espadín mezcal is right. Del Maguey’s San Luis del Rio was the original; Del Maguey Vida is easier to find and cheaper. Since you’re only using half an ounce, a bottle goes a long way. Avoid very smoky or unusual agave varieties for this drink — the mezcal should support the tequila, not overpower it.
Enjoy responsibly — must be 21+.
